world
Okinawan dyed and woven textiles lend flair and elegance to Ryusou.
These techniques were brought to the islands over the course of the Ryukyu Kingdom’s trade
with China, Japan, Southeast Asia, and other countries since around the 14th century.
The use of a variety of techniques and methods enabled the development of unique styles.
These precious treasures have been preserved and handed down to us today.
Here is an introduction to that fascinating history.
Bingata
The term currently in use today is “bin,” designating a color, and “kata or gata” meaning pattern. Both pigments and natural dyes are employed in the bingata dyeing process. One dyeing technique applies a paper pattern and another more sophisticated technique makes use of free-hand drawing.
One particularly attractive design fashioned with this traditional dyeing technique is the audacious and brilliant colors. Several layers are applied to create a pattern with a three-dimensional appearance. Among the broad range of motifs depicted, designs featuring a dragon, phoenix or other rather large figure could only be worn by members of the royal family.
Woven Textiles
A diverse range of woven textiles has developed even within Okinawa owing to the local climate and tireless efforts of artisans. Many different raw materials, such as ramie, banana fibre, silk, and cotton, are employed in the weaving process to produce textiles in forms required for specific uses.
Kasuri
Kasuri is a general designation for fabric woven using either weft, warp or both threads that have been resist-dyed. These are then combined to create geometric patterns. The origin of kasuri is somewhat ambiguous. One theory holds the textiles were introduced from southern Asia while another says it came from China.
Unique kasuri patterns, of which there are some 600 multicolor patterns depicting Okinawan nature, plants and animals, are crafted through the time-consuming work of hand tying one piece of the pattern at a time to bind it tightly.
Woven Textiles
Shuri Brocade
Shuri brocade first appeared in Shuri, the capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom. For this beautiful woven fabric, exquisite jacquard or another figured weave is employed. Shuri brocade is characterized by a diversified weave rich in variation.
Yuntanza-Hanaori
Yuntanza-Hanaori has a long history. Records show that, by the 15th century, this textile was already being produced.
Patterns boding riches, prosperity of descendants, a long life and other fortuitous omens were incorporated into patterns, which combined with stripes and checks produced even more intricately-patterned textiles, giving these works a gorgeous ambiance and exotic feel.
Bashofu
Bashofu, or banana fibre cloth, is a textile made of fibres taken from banana trees. Although its origin is unclear, bashofu is said to have a very long history. This cloth is well-suited to the climate of Okinawa. This species of banana plant thrives and is cultivated throughout Okinawa, from which fibres are harvested for use as threads to weave textiles. It is a simple, yet elegant fabric.
Miyako Jofu
Miyako Jofu, or Miyako ramie textile, is made from the ramie plant and woven into a fine kasuri pattern.
This light thin fabric is popular as a material for crafting high-quality summer kimonos. It is regarded as the finest fabric on account of its magnificent luster and the exquisite detail of the patterns.
Yaeyama Jofu
Yaeyama Jofu is woven from fibres of the ramie plant. Because it breathes well, the cloth is perfect for summer garments. A pristine kasuri pattern standing out sharply on a natural white fabric is quite popular.
Kumejima Tsumugi
Kumejima Tsumugi is a textile made of silk. Natural dyes are used to process the island silk. The fabric is dyed using either a plant-dyeing or mud-dyeing technique. Basically, plenty of shiny black is used, which more prominently enhances understated austere colors.
Yonaguni Brocade
Yonaguni brocade, it is said, came about during the 15th century. The textile is categorized into different types depending on the weaving technique. There is the simple plaid pattern akin to gingham check as well as the flowery hanaori with its beautiful geometric patterns, minsa weave, and so on.
Minsa Weave
Minsa refers to a narrow belt. This belt came to be known as minsa and used to be woven everywhere throughout Okinawa. A woman would weave a minsa and present it to a man whom she harbors feelings for. The man would tie the belt given to him as a sign affirming their love for each other. Four or five kasuri (resist-dyed) patterns would be alternated, implying an “unfailing affection throughout the ages.” The most notable styles is Yaeyama minsa.